The name Yoho comes from a Cree expression of awe and wonder. Yoho National Park is located in Canadian Rocky mountains next to the famous Banff. And while hundreds of tourists stuck in the traffic go crazy about the blue lakes, Yoho welcomes the guests calmly with its magnificent waterfalls, emerald lakes, glaciers, highest mountains of the area and incredible collection of the fossils.
On our first trip to the Rockies, we whizzed right past Yoho. Too little time, too much of Jasper and Banff, while the mountains have already been covered by the smoke from the fires. A year later, we returned to Yoho, this time on purpose. And then a wave of awe and wonder came over us for real…
Yoho Park is definitely one of my favorite Rocky Mountains’ parks. What treasures in it not to miss, read further in this article.
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1. Takakkaw Falls
Takakkaw Falls is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Rocky Mountains and the second highest in Canada. It’s total height is 384 meters (4 times higher than Niagara Falls)!
There’s a paved road leading all the way to the base of Takakkaw. Bring rain gear if you don’t want to get soaked to the skin (on a hot day – getting soaked is probably just what you need).
In Cree, “Takakkaw” means “wonderful,” “amazing”. In that case, the name really fits. The grandeur of the waterfall reminded me of Iceland straight away (and it’s crazy how beautiful it is there!). Be sure to check out Takakkaw Falls if you’re in the Rockies!
A breathtaking Iceline Trail goes up from Takakkaw Falls : 14 km, 5-6 hours. This place is also a must for climbers – the rocks by the waterfall are quite popular for such activities.
How to get there?
The parking lot is at the end of Yoho Valley Road, about a 30-minute drive from Trans Canada Highway, town of Field. Yoho Valley Road is closed from the end of October to the end of May.
In winter, Takakkaw Falls can only be accessed on skis or snowshoes. Be sure to check the avalanche forecast on the website.
There are no public transportation or shuttles to Takakkaw Falls. One needs to drive there or get a tour.
When?
The best time to visit is June-July . The waterfall is fed by the Daly Glacier, which thaws most excessively during these months.
Camping at Takakkaw Falls
There’s a first-come-first-served camping with great views within a 5-minute walk from the Falls’ parking lot. During the season it’s quite popular. They provide carts to carry your luggage from the parking lot to the campsite.
2. Emerald Lake
Emerald Lake has been first discovered in 1882 by explorer Tom Wilson when by a lucky chance his horse got lost in the woods. This place made such an impression on the seasoned traveler that for several moments he sat and enjoyed the rare, peaceful beauty of the scene. Emerald Lake is really hard to look away from, trust someone who has experienced it personally and repeatedly.
The lake is hidden under the ice from November to early June, and in summer it becomes a giant mirror in which the mountains, trees, and chalets of Emerald Lake Lodge sink. The rich blue-green color of the lake is a courtesy of the particular sediment at the bottom which reflects the sunlight.
If you want, you can rent a canoe or paddle your own. A scenic Emerald Lake Trail runs along the shore. This is a great place to grab a bite, with lots of tables along the way.
How to get there?
Emerald Lake is very easy to get to! Just a 10-minute drive on a good road from the Trans Canada Highway, town of Field.
Tours from Banff are also available. Search for them on tours4fun, getyourguide, viator
When?
Emerald Lake is available all year round. Though the best time is from June to October, when the ice thaws and it becomes truly emerald. Unlike Lake Louise and Moraine, there are much fewer people here, so it’s easier to find a parking spot. The best time to arrive here is in the morning (8-10 am) or just before sunset.
3. Natural Bridge
On the way to Emerald Lake there’s another interesting landmark of Yoho Park, the Natural Bridge. The powerful currents of the Kicking Horse River have eroded a bridge-shaped hole in the rocks here. The waterfall bubbles beneath it and carries on into the canyon. The general belief is that the stone bridge will eventually collapse.
Natural Bridge has several lookouts, a small trail, and picnic tables. Some reviews complain about the crowds of tourists, but we stayed here twice (before 10 a.m. and at sunset) – the parking lot and trailhead were almost empty.
How to get there?
Natural Bridge is 2.5 km fromTrans Canada Highway on Emerald Lake Rd
When?
The place is open all year round. But June-September would be the best choice.
4. Lake O’Hara
The Lake O’Hara scenery is considered one of the most beautiful in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Curvy snow peaks, blue lakes, green mountain passes…
There were so many people who wanted to see this fabulous place with their own eyes that the government took serious measures to limit tourist flow. The closest parking is 11 kilometers from the lake, and it’s a real quest to book a campsite or a shuttle seat.
If you’re lucky enough to snatch a campsite or bus, LakeO’Hara is going to welcome you with its wilderness trails and astonishing views:
- Opabin Plateau – 8.7 km, medium difficulty, 3 hours
- Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit – 10.6 km, medium difficulty, 4.5 hours
- Lake McArthur – 7 km, easy, 1 hour
- Lake Oesa – 11 km, medium difficulty, 4.5 hours
- Wiwaxy Gap – 9 km, hard, 4 hours
How to get there?
It’s not allowed to get to the lake by either personal car or bicycle. There’s five ways to get to O’Hara:
- On a shuttle. Buses leave for the lake every day at 8:30 and 10:30 a.m. And back – at 9:30; 11:30; 2:30; 4:30; 6:30 p.m. Shuttle seats are sold out for the entire season in minutes. Reservations are hard to get, but there’s a chance that someone cancels their booking. Information is here.
- Walking. 11 kilometers on a gravel road is not such a difficult hike. On your way back, ask the shuttle driver if they have any seats available (they often do). Bring cash to pay for your ticket.
- Camping. Make a reservation for camping at Lake O’Hara (+ incoming bus) at the Parks Canada Reservation Service website or call 1(877) 737-3783. Don’t be fooled though, the campsites are going to be sold out as fast as the shuttle seats.
- Elizabeth Parker Cabin. Alpine Club of Canada offers overnight accommodations in a cabin close to the lake.
- Lake O’Hara Lodge. Same story: Book at Lake O’Hara Lodge.
In 2023 campground reservation opens March 28 at 8am MT; bus reservations open April 12 at 8am MT.
When?
Summer. The bus to Lake O’Hara runs from mid-June to early October. The rest of the months it’s too cold and you have to walk 11 km from the parking lot.
5. Wapta Falls
There are hundreds of waterfalls in Yoho Park. Wapta Falls is the second most popular after the brilliant Takakkaw. It is the largest waterfall of the Kicking Horse River, 30 meters high and about 150 meters wide. In the indigenous language, “Wapta” means “river”.
In 1858 this waterfall has witnessed a funny historical event. James Hector, one of the members of the first white expedition in Yoho Park, was kicked by a horse. The guides thought he was dead and started digging a grave. Lucky for him, James woke up just before the tomb was ready. The scientist recovered and walked with the expedition along the river eastward to the top of the pass. To commemorate this amuzing incident, later the river and the pass have been called Kicking Horse.
There’s a little over 2 kilometers walk through the woods and clouds of mosquitoes from the parking lot to the waterfall. If the water is low enough, you can make your way to the islets across the Wapta Falls. I suggest going in the afternoon, when the sunlight falls directly on the waterfall creating beautiful rainbows.
How to get there?
- From Trans-Canada Highway take the gravel road to the Wapta Falls parking lot (about 1.8 km). From the parking lot it’s an easy hike through the woods – 2.3 km one way (40 minutes). Beware of mosquitoes! A map of the trail is here.
- If you’re not to keen on feeding the mosquitoes and wasting your time walking, there’s a lookout on Beaverfoot Forest Service Rd at Wapta Falls just by the road.
When?
The trail to Wapta falls is open all year round. It’s best to go from June to September. In winter you’ll need snowshoes to get there.
6. Spiral Tunnels
By the end of the 19th century, one of the most important tasks of the government was to build a railroad that would connect the province of British Columbia with the rest of the country. The Rocky Mountains proved to be a major problem with this plan. Trying to save some time and effort, they decided to take the route through Kicking Horse Pass, the slope of which was 2 times higher than usual – 4.5%!
Not surprisingly, the first train that tried to go down the hill in 1884 derailed and crashed. The troublesome railroad section was equipped with switches and auxillary locomotives, pointsmen were placed along the way. But no matter what, wagons kept crashing on a regular basis.
The solution came 25 years later, with the construction of the spiral tunnels. Thanks to them, it became possible to reduce the angle of inclination and increase the safety of the route. But to this dayKicking Horse Pass remains Canada’s most challenging railroad pass.
About 25-30 trains pass through the Spiral Tunnels each day. They do not have a clear schedule, but we were able to witness the show the first time we came there.
How to get there?
You can see the Spiral Tunnels and learn more about the history of the place from 2 observation points:
- Lower Tunnel in Mt. Ogden on Trans-Canada Highway, 7.4 km east of the village of Field.
- Upper Spiral Tunnel at Cathedral Mountain, 2.3 km up Yoho Valley Road
When?
Stop by on your way to Takakkaw Falls or on your way to/from Banff. It’s probably not worth going just to look at the tunnels, but if you are there at the right moment to see a train going through the tonnels. it’s going to be a pretty interesting experience.
Camping
Not far from the tunnels is Yoho Park’s largest camping, Kicking Horse Campground. Camping offers picturesque views and easy access to all attractions. First come – first served. It is open from May to October.
From Kicking Horse Campground an easy trail called A Walk in the Past leads through old railroad tracks and an abandoned steam locomotive.
7. Burgess Shale
The Burgess Shale in Yoho Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is one of the richest and best-preserved collections of fossils from the Cambrian period (over 500 million years old!).
The fossils had been first found by paleontologist Charles Walcott in 1909 and he returned to the dig every year since until his 74th birthday. The number and variety of remains is so great that it gave birth to the special paleontological term – “Burgess Shale fauna”. Many conclusions about the origin of animals on our planet have been drawn from the Burgess Shale findings.
How to get there?
Since theBurgess fossils have great scientific value, they can only be accessed with a guided tour.
The Burgess Shale Geoscience Foundation conducts guided mountain hikes:
- Walcott Quarry (22 km, 11 hours) – details and reservations here.
- Mount Stephen Trilobite Beds (8 km, 7 hours) – details here
When?
Hikes are organized four times a week from June to mid-September. For more information, visit the official website.
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